Years ago, we were lucky enough to get a pre-dawn tour of Fulton Fish Market, a few months before the old outdoor stalls shuttered and moved operations to a state of the art building in the south Bronx. It was the middle of winter and there on the East River waterfront ice and fish had pretty much become one. As fishmongers went about their work with bloody hooks and layers of clothing, the homeless guys camping out down on the cobblestones of South Street Seaport lit fires in metal trashcans and oil drums to beat the frigid cold. This Sunday’s New Amsterdam market is an homage to what came before, minus the cold and dark and plus a few lobster rolls and other goodies. Called the “Wintermarket,” it’ll feature a whole section of seafood from fisheries of the Northeast and New England.